Red rice

This is a vegetarian combine of Lowcountry red rice and hoppin' john. Serves 12-16.

1 lb field peas
2 bay leaves
4 black peppercorns

4 onions
2 celery stalks
4 cups rice
6 cups bean cooking water
1 tin chopped tomatoes
1 small tin tomato paste

fennel seed
cumin seed
mustard seed
celery seed
chopped onion and celery
6 cloves garlic
ground ginger
madras curry
smoked paprika

Rinse and pick over the field peas, or use black-eyed peas in a pinch. Boil them with one bay leaf and peppercorns for 20-30 minutes until they're just tender. Take off heat and let them cool in the liquid. They can be stored overnight in their liquid in the fridge.

Strain the beans from their liquid, reserving 6 cups for cooking the rice. Bring this liquid to boil in a saucepan with the chopped tomatoes and paste. Meanwhile, chop the onions and celery, setting aside a handful for the tarka later. Sweat the rest in oil in a large dutch oven. Then fry the rice until it turns translucent. Add the hot bean-tomato broth and a bay leaf, scraping up the rice from the bottom of the pan. Add a scoop of salt, stir once and cover. Cook it in the oven for 30 minutes until the rice is ready.

Spread the drained peas on a large baking sheet and pop them in the oven for 10 minutes. Then stir them around and cook for another 5-10. The goal is to toast them lightly, so that they don't go to mush when mixed in with the rice.

In a saucepan in hot oil, temper the seeds and spices, following the order above. Be generous with the paprika to bring the smoke. When the tarka is cooked, mix it with the beans. When the rice is ready, fluff in the beans.